Part 1 - Anatomy of a Buckram Frame

It is helpful to understand the pieces and parts of the hat frame prior to getting started. There are typically three pieces to the hat: Crown Tip, Side Band and Brim. The crown tip and side band are attached together, and after covering, are joined with the brim.

The millinery wire supports the buckram structure and insures that the shape is held in tact.

All wired edges are eventually covered with bias tape or muslin to conceal any defects or protrusions, and to prevent the wire from poking through into the fashion fabric added later.

Part 2 - Creating the Buckram Frame

The pattern is traced onto the buckram and cut out. If you are using a DND Kit, the pieces will come already traced.

Next, the millinery wire is sewn to the brim and tip pieces using a machine or by hand.

Cover the wired edge of the brim using bias tape or muslin by machine or by hand.

Cut out the center of the inside brim edge (if you have not done so) leaving seam allowance.

Stitch the ends of the center back side band together.

Using a needle and doubled thread, attach the tip to the side-band.

Once the tip and side-band are sewn together, the wired edges must be covered.

Now your completed buckram frame is ready for covering!

Part 3 - Covering the Buckram Frame

Cut out the pattern cover pieces - crown tip, side band, and brim.

The crown tip cover is hand sewn or glued to the sides of the crown.

Cover the side band of the crown.

Slip the side band piece (right side out) over the crown and slide down into place matching center back.

Cover the Brim

Cover the outer edge of the brim - For this step, use a bias cut strip or bias tape as you wish. Starting at the center back, stitch (by machine or by hand) the bias strip onto the underside of the brim.

Once the bias has been attached to the outer edge all the way around, roll the bias strip over the wired edge to the other side and sew in place.

Cut out the center hole of the brim following the edge of the tabs in the frame.

Attach the Crown to the Brim - Set the Crown onto the brim matching center back and center front. Fold the tabs upward into the crown edge.

Using a heavy-duty straight needle and millinery thread, hand stitch the crown to the brim tabs all the way around.
Ready for decorating!