Historical Garment Understructure Timeline

There seems to be a lot of misconception about the style and shape of hoops and various apparatuses used to create specific shapes for skirts throughout the Victorian era. Since I too was confused at one point, I began to research the topic and find out as much as I could about it. Below is a collection of diagrams and drawings from the period that might help those who are interested in achieving the correct look.

The origin of the French word Crinoline means horsehair and linen petticoat – ‘Crin’ being the word for horsehair. Crinoline became the name for any petticoat in the 19th Century.

Crinolines in the 1840’s were thick and dome shaped. As the decade progressed they became stiffer and crisper. Flounced skirts came in, and the number of crinolines increased. Some were reinforced with cording, some with whalebone, until eventually they were not enough. This resulted in the invention of the cage petticoat 1856.
Back to the Historical Research page

Time Line of Victorian Skirt Understructure

1856 Cage Crinoline
Patented in 1856
1856 Crinoline
1856 Crinoline
Horse Hair Crinoline
1858 Hoop
1858 Hoop
Adjustable bustle and skirt
1858 Adjustable Bustle
1858 Adjustable Bustle
Adjustable bustle
1858 Crinoline
1858 Crinoline
Cotton dome shaped crinoline
1860 Hoop
1860 Hoop
1860 Flat front dome shaped back hoop
1862 Hoop
1862 Hoop
Flat front elliptical hoop
1864 Hoop
1864 Hoop
Elliptical hoop - flat front
1866 Cage
1866 Cage
1866 Flat front elliptical with draw string for lifting
1869 Combined
1869 Combined
1869 Bustle and crinoline combined
1875 Tournure
1875 Tournure
1875 Tournure (bustle) and petticoat combined
1878 Petticoat
1878 Petticoat
Ruffled Petticoat
1882 Bustles
1882 Bustles
Different bustle types
1885 Bustle
1885 Bustle
1885 Horsehair bustle and ruffled flounce at bottom
1885 Bustle
1885 Bustle
1885 petticoat plus tournure
1887 Cage
1887 Cage
Bustle Cage